Last Days at Hudon Bay (Adventure Concludes Day 8-9)

It's our last full day at the Seal River Heritage Lodge. I think we all sense how special this trip has been. There are lots of bears around and we continue to photograph them.

Polar Bear - click for larger

It's difficult to work like I normally do. I see amazing things like the way the light hits the landscape. But I can’t just pick up my gear and react to it like I usually would. To head out of the compound, I need guys with shotguns and must go as part of a big group. It's a difficult way to work but very necessary!

Hudson Bay - click for larger

A bear has been lying down just outside the compound. It's so close! We all take turns photographing it through the fence. I start with a 16-35mm wide angle lens and then switch to a 24-105mm. I have never imagined being this close to a wild Polar Bear. Andy warns me that they can move very fast. So I show him the back of my camera. He smiles. I'm sure he gets it. We can't help but shoot!

Polar Bear - click for larger

Everyone was very accommodating of each other. It was so nice to see people working so well together.

Photographers - click for larger

Photographing Bears - click for larger

Polar Bear - click for larger

Polar Bear - click for larger

I can't tell you how it feels to take these images. It feels privileged. Privileged to be in a place like this and to be so close to such a wonderful species. We spend the rest of the day much the same way we have since we got here - shooting. In the evening, Dennis puts together a selection of our favourite images for a slide show. Later we have dinner and head outside to enjoy a bonfire.

The next morning, I go outside and just kind of soak the place up. There are bears around and I shoot a few frames but the ship is pointed towards home. It's over. Or is it? I'm scheduled to fly out on the first plane. But currently, Churchill is fogged in and the plane can't take off. I hear the cook's father died 2 days ago and she is anxious to get home. I give up my seat to her so she can be on the first plane out if it comes. We sit and wait. I email home and let Lori know that I may not make it out today. I have a flight booked home tomorrow around noon from Winnipeg. It will be complicated if I don't make it out but what a place to be stuck!

The Lodge - click for larger

The plane finally makes it out of Churchill. The first group heads out to the airstrip to meet it. We watch as two polar bears stalk them. Terry and Andy drive the bears off with snowballs and rocks. But the plane just sits there. We head into the dining room for lunch and hear that Churchill is fogged in again. That's why they didn't take off. They come back in for lunch. Riley has to stay and guard the plane with a shotgun because the bears are so curious they could damage it. Everyone wonders if we will make it out today. After lunch, a call comes in that the fog has cleared so off they go. After a quick trip the plane comes back for the next group. We walk out and are on our way. The plane flies low out over Hudson Bay. It's the most direct route and we make it to there without any trouble. We meet up with the rest of the gang, and have dinner in Churchill. Then we get on a plane back to Winnipeg. In Winnipeg John rents a car while I sit and listen to Scott and Robert banter like they've been married for 40 years. I'm laughing so hard I'm crying listening to them. Man we had fun!

The Gang - click for larger

Till next trip…

A Dream Come True: (Adventure Continues Day 5 –7)

We get up at 6:30am even though sunrise isn't until after 9. So we have a leisurely pace in the morning. Breakfast is at 7am. The food is so good! The staff here are all friendly and very good at what they do. They are always smiling! We chat it up over the great food and thoughts of what will come of the day. A polar bear sits just outside the dining room window. After breakfast, Mike informs us that our bags will leave Churchill at first light. That's a relief. It will be nice to have a change of clothes, ski pants, and of course my tripod!

We put on our parkas and go outside. An Arctic fox walks by. Unfortunately, it’s too dark for a good photo.

Arctic Fox in dim light

The light comes up a bit more and I get a good shot of a Ptarmigan.

Willow Ptarmigan - click for larger

Bears are walking by and the light is starting to get nice.

Polar Bear Sitting in Sea Lyme Grass - click for larger

Polar Bear at Hudson Bay

So much is happening so fast and all at once. I'm taking pictures constantly. It's surreal to be this close to polar bears. So far we have been working within the fenced compound. The bears come close. Really close. It feels like we are zoo animals and they are coming up to look at us. They are so beautiful but you know they are deadly. The compound is large and has 2 platforms to shoot images from.

Seal River Heritage Lodge - click for larger

Most of the fence is "Buffalo" fence with large enough openings to line up our camera lenses and shoot through. But we need to be very aware of where the bears are. They can move very fast and the fence openings are large enough for them to get their head or paws through.

Polar Bear with Head through Fence - click for larger

George Duck from Thompson, Manitoba is the night watchman.

George - click for larger

In addition to guarding us at night, George hauls water for lodge use during the day. One time when George headed out for water I heard shotgun fire. I asked Terry what was up. He said that George is out alone. When you are alone out there the bears will stalk you. George was firing his shotgun in the air to scare off the bears. I tried to use a lot less water after that.

George on ATV - click for larger

Our bags finally arrived with my tripod and the rest of my clothes!

Airplane click for larger

After putting on my ski pants and getting my tripod, we venture outside the compound beyond any safety of the fence for the first of many hikes.

Hiking at Seal River - click for larger

We have our constant companions with us - the guides Andy and Terry. They both carry shotguns, pepper spray, bear bangers and even a rock or two.

Guides - click each image for larger

There is a bear out on the ice sleeping, another one to the right on land.

Sleeping Polar Bear - click for larger

One of the guides sees a large bear raise its head from the willows. We are surrounded. It's an eerie feeling! The bears can appear and disappear at will. The land is so flat, and they are so big. How can they disappear like that? Scary!

Hidden Bear - click for larger

In the afternoon, we went back out for another hike. We hike for a while and get a few images but not much is happening so we start heading back to the lodge. As we approach, we spot a bear. The light is sweet but the bear is in shadow. We all line up hoping it will move out of the shadows. And suddenly there it was, in perfect light and coming toward us.

Polar Bear - click for larger

I'm smiling all over as I press the shutter. The bear wanders off toward the ice. But then he turns and I get my shot. It's THE SHOT I have dreamed about. Great light, great scene. You couldn't beat the smile off my face with a stick.

Polar Bear - click for larger

We get a few more images as the bear starts to walk back toward us.

Polar Bear - click for larger

He gets closer and closer, too close to photograph with a 500mm lens. Just when I start to feel really uncomfortable, the guides start to talk to the bear. Then they yell, throw snowballs, and finally launch a bear banger. The bear moves away. I'm grateful the guides are there. I'm also glad that the bear is not harmed. I want photos but not at the expense of the bear.

After that we go back to the compound and finish up the day inside the enclosure.

Polar Bear - click for larger

Rolling Polar Bear - click for larger

Back inside the lodge after a great day of photos, I feel like I can relax a bit now. Any images I get after this will be gravy.

The next day brings more bears. I just love this place. I'm with a great group of people and everyone seems to hit it off. Hard to be unhappy when you’re a photographer in a place like this!

Polar Bear - click for larger

Polar Bear - click for larger

We are shooting from a platform when a Gyrfalcon flies over. I react as quickly as possible and get one shot that's sharp. It's the first time I have ever seen this bird species.

Gyrfalcon - click for larger

As the light starts to get that late afternoon sweetness, I want to walk outside the compound. The landscape is so beautiful here. The ice and boulders, the Sea Lyme Grass and bear prints are so beautiful. We get the guides to take us out for a hike and photograph some bears lying about. We walk right to the shore of Hudson Bay. The group is just interested in bears. But I can’t take it anymore; I have to shoot the landscape. So I stay back from the crowd.

Photographers - click for larger

Thankfully Terry stays back with me and watches my back for approaching bears.

I see images everywhere.

Hudson Bay - click for larger

Tracks - click for larger

Hudson Bay Coastline - click for larger

Ice on Hudson Bay - click for larger

Seal River Heritage Lodge - click for larger

After sunset, we have to walk in near darkness past several bears to get back to the lodge. We stay close to the guides.

Inside the lodge we start our backups. Another great day! We have a glass of wine and chat about our images. After we have had a couple of glasses of wine and some nibbles, a young woman comes into the main lounge and announces that dinner is ready.

She says, "By the way, as you pass the window in the hallway please be careful, there is a bear up at the window with his head and paws hanging through."

Thankfully, there are bars on the window.

Polar Bear looking in Window - click for larger

After another wonderful meal, we head back to the lounge. Dennis Fast gives a wonderful presentation and slide show of his Polar Bear images. Dennis is a good speaker. He must be as tired as we are. But still after many years of doing this, he is just as happy to be here as we are. He has so many images that are so beautiful. If you get a chance, check out his book, Wapusk: White Bear of the North

Wapusk - click to view Publisher's site

I’m off to bed. More to come...

The Seal River Heritage Lodge (Adventure Continues Day 4)

I walked up to the Calm Air departure desk in Winnipeg blurry eyed and half asleep. The man said, "Pick a bag."

"Excuse me?" I asked.

"Pick a priority bag. The flight is full and we will probably have to bump one bag."

Hmmm, camera bag, or clothes and tripod? I picked the camera bag. I would rather freeze than go without my cameras! I asked if there was Valet service for my camera bag. No was the answer. That meant I had to check my camera bag with my 500mm lens among other very expensive things. This was a bit nerve racking. I was relieved to find out that Scott and John got the same story. Robert however walked up with his camera bag with a Valet tag attached. "How did you get that?" I asked.

He smiled and said, "You have to be charming and good looking to get this kind of service." I mumbled that all the mirrors in his house must be broken…

We got to the departure lounge without too much trouble, had a bite to eat and waited to board the plane. It was still dark when we walked out onto the tarmac to board the very small twin prop plane to Churchill. We all had our huge parkas on. It was a little uncomfortable being stuffed into our seats with so much camera equipment in our pockets (this was to reduce the weight of our camera bags so we did not go over the limit). It was a short flight with a gas stop in Thompson and then on to Churchill.

The plane landed and we walked into the Airport. Rose from Churchill Wild met us there to help guide us onto the plane to the Seal River Heritage Lodge. She gave us the bad news about our bags. Several of us would be without extra clothes and tripods. Some people started to get upset. I just smiled and said, "Hey it's just part of the adventure. We will figure out some way of getting some images." They assured us that our bags would be at the lodge by sunrise tomorrow.

Rose asked who wanted to go first. Nobody said anything so I said "Pick Me!" We walked out to a Turbo Beaver.

Turbo Beaver - click for larger

They loaded our bags and Rose asked if I would like to ride up front with the pilot. "You bet!" I already had my camera out with a 16 – 35mm lens on. I made the climb up into the front and did up the seat belt. Matt, our young bush pilot jumped in grinning ear to ear. It was a bit chilly and our breath coated the window. He quickly fired up the Beaver and pulled out onto the runway.

Pilot - click for larger

The plane was in the air in a very short distance. We flew low heading north.

Ron Erwin riding shotgun - click for larger

We saw lots of moose along the way. Then the trees thinned out.

From the plane - click for larger

Matt guided the plane down to the gravel/snow-covered runway. We bounced and slid a bit sideways and then nicely pulled up to the far end of the runway. We were met by two men with 12 gauge shotguns and an ATV with a trailer. Terry and Andy would be our constant companions whenever we ventured outside the compound for the duration of our stay here.

Plane at Seal River runway - click for larger

I had stuffed my 70-200 into my pocket before we got into the plane so I switched lenses before we walked to the lodge.

It was just a 5-minute walk from the runway. We almost made it to the lodge when we found 2 bears lurking behind the generator shed. I was photographing bears even before we got to the lodge. A very good omen indeed!

Polar Bear - click for larger

After we shot images of polar bears for about 20 minutes, we walked into the compound and then made our way into the lodge. We were greeted by Mike and Jeanne, the owners of the lodge and Churchill Wild. Mike asked how the trip in was. I explained my dilemma of having no tripod to work with. He said, "I have a couple of tripods here, let me get one for you." I had my ball head in my camera bag so I was ecstatic! I quickly set up and went out to the compound. There were a couple of bears within range. The rest of the group soon joined me and we spent the rest of the afternoon photographing bears up close and personal.

Polar Bear - click for larger

Once the light was gone, we went inside to do backups. We enjoy a glass of wine and hors d'oeuvres. This is a wonderful place! We each introduce ourselves and have an orientation session. They talk about safety for the bears and us and then we head off to dinner. The food and the company are wonderful! After a long day, we head to bed early.

At around 11p.m. I'm awakened by a knock at my door, "Northern Lights!" I crawl out of bed and get dressed. We head out and Scott and I share a tripod and shoot the lights for about an hour.

Northern Lights - click for larger

It was a nice show and a great end to a great day!

More to come…

The Adventure Continued - Day 1-3

It was an uneventful trip to Winnipeg. I sailed through check in and Security in spite of my slightly overweight carry-on. I was in Winnipeg and sitting in the rental car by 10:30 local time. But I wasn't sure what to do. So I looked at the map and decided to head to Hecla/Grindstone Provincial Park. It was a nice drive but not much to photograph. I shot some images in Hecla and headed back to Winnipeg. There was a farmer baling straw. I think that was the best shot of the day.

Baling - click for larger

Back in Winnipeg I checked into my Hotel and had dinner in the lobby bar. There was a group just back from Churchill exchanging bear stories. Sounds like they had a great time.

I went up to my room and rearranged my gear for the next part of the trip. My friends and fellow adventure seekers, Robert, Scott and John arrived around 8pm. We made plans to get up the next day at 5 a.m. and head to Riding Mountain National Park for first light. Then we went to bed.

We drove an hour before stopping for Breakfast. It was mild and the roads were clear. Along the way we saw a few things including a Bald Eagle and a Snowy Owl. We didn’t get "keeper" images but it was great to see these birds!

Over the next couple of days we worked Riding Mountain National Park. It's so great to be out working with other photographers. We are all very passionate and driven to get images. At the same time we are all very supportive of each other. We all tried to make sure the other guys would get their shot as well.

We saw so much in the Park. Here are a few highlights:

Bison - click for larger

Spruce Grouse - click for larger

Northern Hawk Owl - click for larger

Ruffed Grouse - click for larger

Coyote - click for larger

Wetlands - click for larger

Tomorrow we leave for Churchill and then on to the Seal River. Can’t wait!

An Adventure

A few years ago, I was sitting around with a group of nature photographers after a great photo session at Point Pelee National Park. Dennis Fast was filling our heads with visions of "The North". Dennis is a fabulous photographer, very knowledgeable birder, and one of the nicest people I have ever met. His specialty is polar bears (see http://www.dennisfast.com). Earlier that day Dennis had been standing shoulder to shoulder with several photographers when he looked over at me and waved me to his spot. He stepped aside and let me have the best view of a Blue-gray Gnatcatcher sitting on a nest. Not many people would do that.

Blue-gray Gnatchacher - click for larger

Later as we listened to his stories about Northern Manitoba with its Polar Bears, Arctic Fox and Northern lights, we all wanted to go. I think it was Scott who suggested it first. "Hey, why not get a bunch of us fellow photographers together and we head to Churchill and beyond?" This was a few years ago but it has always stayed in the back of our minds - even Dennis continued to think about it. Last January I received an email from him about an opportunity to travel to the mouth of the Seal River in mid-November. Unfortunately this landed right smack in the middle of my teaching schedule. But thanks to a very understanding boss, I was allowed to find someone to cover my classes and go. (Thanks Jed!)

Once we were committed to this, I started to gather all the stuff I would need for such an adventure. Here is my list of the gear I will be packing:

Canon 1Ds Mark III camera
Canon 5D Mark II camera
Four: Extreme III 16 Gig CF Cards
Canon 500mm f4 lens
Canon 16-35mm f2.8 L lens
Canon 24-105mm f4 IS L lens
Canon 70-200mm f4 L lens
Extension tubes
1.4X Multiplier
Various Lee Filters
Gitzo GT3541Tripod with Really Right Stuff Ball Head
Spare batteries
Chargers for both cameras
MacBook Pro
500 Gig Lacie Rugged Hard Drive with Firewire cable and power cord
250 Gig Hyper Drive with power cord, Mini USB cable and charger
Nikon binoculars
Kiboko Backpack by Gura Gear
Snow Goose Down Parka
Ski Pants
Columbia Winter boots rated for -55C
Long Underwear
Gore-Tex Mitts
Fingerless Gloves with liners
All of this needs to be stuffed into one camera bag, a laptop backpack and a duffel bag along with my clothes and toiletries. Stuffed it shall be! I fly out on Saturday to Winnipeg. A few of us plan to work in Riding Mountain National Park for a couple of days before heading to Churchill and the Seal River on Tuesday. I can't wait!

More to come…

Fall Colours and Fire in my Bones

Fallen Maple Leaves - click for larger

We watched the weather for a few weeks with anxious anticipation. It had been a long time since we had worked Algonquin in peak autumn colour. After several weekends' forecasts for rain, we finally decided just to go on Thanksgiving weekend. On Friday Lori came with me to work so we could leave right after my afternoon class. But at the college there were no available outdoor parking spots to park a van with a canoe on the roof. I drove past the underground parking garage. It said 7 feet maximum. Hmmm, we must be close to that, if not a bit over. So I drove slowly. The canoe just touched the big bar suspended over the entrance. I carefully drove into a parking space. We just fit.

A little after 6 p.m we hit the road for the Park. We made only one quick stop in Huntsville and got to the Motel in Whitney around 10:30. It had rained hard the entire trip and had been a long day. So we went to bed and set the alarm for 6 a.m.

When the alarm went off the next day we got right up and headed into the Park. We stopped to get a permit at the East Gate just as it was beginning to get a little brighter. I drove to Brewer’s Lake and waited for first light.

Brewer Lake - click for larger

The colour was at its peak. It was frosty and the light was great. We continued to shoot as we drove or hiked in the Park.

Source Lake Wetlands - click for larger

Smoke Creek - click for larger

Highway 60 - click for larger

Source Lake Road - click for larger

Rock Lake - click for larger

It felt like it used to feel long ago. Shooting just for the joy if it, because I’m compelled, driven to do this. Nice to know those feelings are still there. Nice to know that at 50 I still have fire in my bones. I was starting to wonder if it would ever come back.

The next 2 days went much the same - up early, working in the predawn light. We had some lovely frost on Monday. I saw an image about to happen and pulled the van over. Smiling I set up the tripod and camera and ran to get into position. In 5 minutes it was gone. But it was long enough for me to get a few shots.

Costello Creek - click for larger

After that I worked the frost covered leaves at the side of the road and then moved on to look for more landscapes.

Frosted Leaves - click for larger

Spruce Bog - click for larger

Heading west out of the park we came upon a large number of cars at the side of the road. There were two bull moose cavorting about, even butting heads. We got out and joined the crowd. Sometimes I wonder what people are thinking when they walk up to a large wild animal like a bull moose with small children in tow. They pose the kids dangerously close to the moose and proceed to take photos with point and shoot cameras. Now I understand that it is a big deal to see a moose for most of these people. For some, this was their first time. But these animals are very dangerous. Funny most people don't see it that way. I always cringe when I see this kind of thing.

Moose - click for larger

Moose - click for larger

It felt great to be out shooting images. It felt like it used to when I was younger and free to just shoot. Must see if I can keep that going.

Highway 60 - click for larger

Balance

Balancing Rock - Click to view Larger

I was sitting in a bar in Lowell Massachusetts, The Old Worthen, now called Worthen House. I was having a beer with my good friend Brian Maloney. The Worthen is a very old bar in a very old New England town. Charles Dickens visited there. Jack Kerouac wrote there. It was so full of history and charm.Brian is a fine musician, a really gifted sole that I miss everyday. We were playing cribbage, drinking beer and smoking Marlboro Lights. Ah the good old days! I was a little down as I often am in the Fall. He looked at me as he played a killer hand of crib, and said, "You know, you have to keep your highs low and lows high. Balance is the key to happiness".

Surfer - Click to view Larger

I’m not sure how either of us has succeeded in balance in our lives. We both put off doing what we loved to do in pursuit of money, security and establishing ourselves. Was it a mistake? I’m not sure I was ready to be an artist back then. I still had a lot to learn. I still do. But Brian could sing like a bird. I can remember us sitting down to play music together. He was so good that I stopped playing and put down my guitar. I just sat there and said, "Play". He could play songs that I loved and they would sound better than the original. But music is a young man's game. I watched him wrestle with his marriage, his work and his passion. Did he wait too long? I hope not. We lost touch a few years ago. Usually I call him every year on his birthday. Last year I called and his number was out of service. I searched for a phone number or some sign he was alive. Nothing. A line in a song he wrote kept running over and over in my head, "So many people have run through my life, so much resistance, so much to fight. It took me too long to see the light".

Sandbanks Beach - Click to view larger

Whenever I feel down I think of that night in the bar. It was a cold, rainy night just like tonight. My friend made the time tolerable and fun. Balance? I don’t know much about balance even today. But I do know more about following my passions. I've learned a lot from the people around me. I've watched people struggle, make mistakes and carry on through the good and rough times.

I don’t have many close friends. Maybe I'm too selective or maybe it's some terrible character flaw. In the Fall, I struggle with the rain and the darkness. But I remember some wonderful people who have run through my life and how they have shaped who I am. I feel so lucky to have what I have. I feel pain and joy. I feel sad and happy. I remember a good friend teaching me to go for what you love, even if he couldn’t.

Keep your lows high and your highs low. Hope you are playing a bar somewhere warm Brian. By the way, I'm way better at crib now. Up for a beer at the Worthen?